“In the womb of winter, summer seems a myth.” These are the lyrics of a song I listened to as I sat in the shuttle bus from JFK to Grand Central this afternoon, trying to stay awake . . . mostly unsuccessfully.
I had already been traveling for around 40 hours — a hairy taxi ride from Poipet to Phnom Penh (more on that below), a few hours in the city for dinner (and a much needed shower at a new friend’s place — thanks, Mary and Steve!), then a plane to Seoul, another layover, and finally the flight back to JFK.
So as you can imagine, by the time I was on that bus heading toward Manhattan, I was already in a state of hazy-headedness, not sure if the exhaustion I felt was more due to the days of travel, the twelve-hour jet lag, or the waiting forty minutes in a somewhat ineffective bus shelter.
As I sat on the bus, staring out the front windshield at snowflakes hitting, then being wiped away by the huge vertical wipers, a song came on by Brett Dennen called “Someday”. The first line is, “In the womb of winter, summer seems a myth,” and I thought, “Yep.”
I had begun the day in steamy Cambodia, where bougainvillea blooms over rough-hewn walls and yellow mangoes abound in the markets, and ended in frozen Connecticut, where everything in sight is heavy with a wet snow. It’s not easy for a body to reconcile the experience of such staggeringly different climates on the same day (well, technically two days, but you know what I mean).
This dichotomy always gets me when I return from these trips — the reality of life in Cambodia seems a myth when back in the States, and vice versa. And it’s not just the difference in climate, but the contrast of experiences.
From Cambodia, where I ride on the back of a “moto” (a motorbike “taxi” — I have my suspicions that sometimes I’m just hailing an ordinary driver on their way by, and they say, “Sure, I’ll take $1 to give you a ride!”) primly sidesaddle in my skirt and without a helmet (don’t tell my kids!), to Connecticut, where I have never once ridden with my husband on his motorcycle because of vague imaginings of my children being orphaned.
From Cambodia, where I ride in a taxi going speeds up to 85 miles an hour (and intermittently playing “chicken” with various oncoming cars, buses, and bicyclists in order to pass other vehicles) without a seat belt (none available), to the States where I could (not wrongly) be called legalistic about seat belt-wearing (I wear one to drive even the two short residential blocks from my best friend’s house to mine). (As an aside, I’d like to reassure any of you who are either starting to worry about me or reconsidering your own desire to join me on a future trip, the above taxi ride is not the normal experience, even in Cambodia. I received an email after I got home today that a friend of Carrie’s had awoken in the middle of the night with an urge to pray for us at what would have been just the time we were on this ride! So I think I will ascribe our safety on that ride not just to luck, but to Providence!)
I think you get the picture — not only is the reality of life quite different in Cambodia (see other blog entries below and it is undeniable how other it is), but I think I can sometimes be a different kind of person there, too.
It’s not just that I put up with hair-raising incidents with a casual-shrug-attitude, either. While I am there, the realities and stresses of everyday life back home seem a “myth”; they seem less real and of far less concern than the poverty issues the people in Cambodia face. Then, when I am back home, the certainty that I had gained that I should not allow trivial things to upset me somehow fades to become a myth-like apparition, too.
This, then, is also the challenge of the return: how to remember not just what I saw while I was there, but how to be as I was there . . .